Saturday, July 30, 2011

All is well

Hello friends,
sorry for not posting for a while. Wireless internet is a much rarer commodity in the Himalayas than in the United States, and we've been unable to find suitable hotels either, so unfortunately our pages of notes and breathtaking pictures of the mountains will have to wait until we can fully update.

We thought it would be appropriate to at least say hello to everyone, and jot down some brief comments.

The mountains are truly amazing. We have been blown away repeatedly by the beauty of our surroundings. Our travels to Gangotri, one of the holiest sights in India was an amazing journey, and we were both inspired by the scenery and our dip in the freezing river. We've been blessed to participate in some Hindu worship rituals, and have been reflecting on the similarities and differences we see between people around the world.

Just three stories on that front: we got lost in Delhi, late at night looking for a missing hotel with nothing but an address. We found ourselves in a filthy rickshaw with a man who spoke no English, getting further and further away from our target in the deepening dark, as he sought to find someone who could find our location.  Eventually, we passed a recognizable landmark and leapt out of his vehicle, finally finding a place to rest our heads thanks to a very helpful official security officer. We felt both very far from home, but also impressed to find help in a time of need.
In Haridwar, gateway to the Himalayas, we found ourselves in the midst of a festival honoring Shiva, lord of destruction and intercourse, and not coincidentally there were hordes of young men surrounding us everywhere we went, asking for pictures, and touching Rachel in very inappropriate ways.
After these events, we were very ready for a break. So our kind English speaking guide, our competent driver, the simple lives of the mountain villagers, the ancient rituals of Hinduism, and most of all the stunning majesty and peace of the Himalayas restored our souls.
From this point we travel to Agra- via sleeper bus!!!, to see the Taj Mahal, before returning to the chaos of Delhi to close our adventure, returning home less than a week from today.
We hope to be able to comment again, but if not, we will see you all soon.

Sunday, July 24, 2011

wow, this is a lot

so, we haven't had internet for a few days, so this is a huge post.
No pictures either, I don't have the speed to upload. Soon, we promise. I'll drop some in the appropriate places in this giant post, plus others we like, since I know pictures are the most fun, and only our parents will read this mammoth thing.

Anyway,
Highlights:
I preached 11 times in 4 days, Rachel 5 times.
I named a baby (you're welcome Michael).
Rachel learned to Indian dance.
We personally blessed hundreds of people by praying with our hands on them.
We went to the beach 3 times.
We met lots of wonderful new friends.
Rachel is wearing a sari this evening.
Clearly, we're exhausted, but delighted by our most cross cultural experience of our lives.


Tuesday, July 19th
Another step deeper in
We knew we were in for an adventure when we flew to the Rajmundry airport, and saw nothing beneath us that would qualify as 'city' or even 'town', but more like 'jungle, interspersed with huts.' the Rajmundry 'airport' consisted of one runway, surrounded by a high fence. Baggage claim was a truck, driven up to the 'terminal' (a room smaller than the fellowship hall) which was unloaded in the middle of the room, first come first served. We were feeling 'excited' at this point (OK, enough with the quotes).
However, as we came outside, we were greeted by Augusteen and Lalitha's smiling faces, and we were welcomed with warm embraces, and traditional Indian garlands. It was a delight to reconnect after a year apart. His ministry and home are about 2 hrs. away from the airport, so we hopped in the car with the driver and Lalitha, and Augusteen followed behind on his motorcycle. (picture)
Its a very different part of India-palm and coconut trees, rice patties, water buffalo, lounging in lakes, prawn fisheries, and a much more rural setting. Rather than there being people everywhere, there are just people always in sight-that is, you can look at things other than the people without much trouble most of the drive. Its also an interesting place because of the contrasts. Most people live in grass huts, or houses with concrete walls with grass roofs, and the richest live in concrete or brick houses. But all over the region, there are large construction projects, schools and industries moving to the rural area for whatever reason. I hope that it promises hope to poor people. There are certainly good things being done.
(picture)
We reached Augusteen and Lalitha's, which is a charming cement home of about 4 rooms (depending how you count the mostly outdoor bathroom) next door to the as yet unfinished church. There we met his three daughters (Priscilla, Santa Sharut, and Susan) as well as his parents, and were given an hour to rest from our journey. We watched the sun set from their roof, had cookies, tea, and apples, and made friends with the girls, who speak a little English (In 6th grade, they take three languages-Telegu, the local language, Hindu, and English-as always, America has some work to do). Then we set off on the next step on our journey. Augusteen has set up a pastor's conference in Anapurim, nearly 100 km further away, and we needed to be there. We packed 6 people in a 4.5 person car, and headed off. About 20 km in, we stopped for supper, and dropped Augusteen and pastor Luke Bosca off to take the bus the rest of the way (fear not, they were only 30 minutes behind us. Buses work in India). After arriving, we collapsed in bed, exhausted.

Wednesday, July 20th-
Today, we awoke early, to have breakfast with Augusteen and Lalitha, and to be updated on the days adventures. We talked about appropriate cultural behavior (take off your shoes outside homes and places of worship, say hello (bagunara) and thank you (wandanalu) at appropriate times, don't shake hands with women unless they want it, things like that. Also, we shared the gifts we brought with us for them and their community, which were very well received, particularly the shirts, Lalitha's bag, and the nativity we brought Augusteen.
One particularly interesting discussion revolved around how to talk about Hinduism. Augusteen's perspective, which I really liked, is that they don't want to be in comparison with Hinduism, because comparison begets competition, which is not good for anyone. Rather, they want to share the love of God they have found in Christianity, and have a book about that love which they want to teach, but they acknowledge that Hindus have deep and sincere faith, and that they too worship God, even if it is the unknown God that Paul talked about in Acts. It was a simple and profound statement of both our calling to share the good news, and our calling to respect all the religions of the world, and to be good neighbors.
Then, after a brief morning nap, it was time to begin the adventure.
We gathered at the home of pastor Luke, and met his wife and delightful children (picture)
There, we received second breakfasts, *all day we ate like hobbits. My previously useless talent for eating way more food than a body my size should be able to hold was finely proven useful.* This meal including igli, a rice and plum (not our plum) fritter, chai tea (Delicious) and a freshly opened coconut to drink the water inside (you chop off the top with a machete, and drink it with a straw. A little sweet, a little salty, not bad. Rachel even likes it.

Then there was lunch-chicken curry (2 kinds) sambar (soup to go over rice) yogurt with onion.
After lunch, more worship, and more preaching, I spoke on the parable of the sower, and Jesus' teaching both how to be Evangelists, and how to prepare our hearts for God's word. Everyone who was at SLMF two Sundays ago will recognize the bones of the sermon. Its nice to have an audience who hasn't heard anything I have to say.
Then there was afternoon tea, with Pakora, and banana pakora, little fried balls, which are great, for lunch.
Following that, we went to another local congregation, 4 km away. This church building, rather than cement and well equipped, was wood construction, with only two walls, made of palm and coconut leaf. There we ate (of course), including a new fruit for Rachel and I-custard apple. I can't even describe it (but wikipedia can!) but if you get a chance, eat it-its amazing! We blessed the pastor and the building, celebrating this ministry as well. It was interesting to think of the economic and cultural differences between the two places.
The most interesting experience of the afternoon was the opportunity to name a child. A mother came with a 3 month old boy, and asked me to bless him, which I did, basically the standard child dedication prayer, adapted for India. Then she asked me to give him a name. I was a little taken aback-I'm reasonably nervous about naming my pets, let alone someone else's child on the spur of the moment, in a language where I now know about 7 names, total. But Augusteen said just pick a good biblical name. So I picked Micah. Which everyone but Rachel heard as Michael. So Mikaelu it is. I am quite content with how that turned out. So, if anyone sees my brother-in-law, let him know I named a kid after him.
After this, we were sent back to the hotel for a much needed rest before evening worship (Augusteen and Lalitha, gratefully, have put us up in a place with air conditioning, and an American toilet).
In the evening, more food (oof), before my 3rd sermon of the day (a new record!) this was to the whole congregation, and about 100 people crammed into a space maybe half the size of the SLMF fellowship hall, to hear my translated words. Rachel and I think everything went fine, though apparently we're blessing people the wrong way-we need to put our hands on their heads when they come up for prayer after worship. We live, we learn. We also got to sing the song Jesus loves me to the congregation, accompanied by Indian drums, which really helps the beat!
We are tired, but ready for tomorrows adventures-door to door evangelism for me (apparently, a white dude opens a lot of doors) and a high school/young adult Sunday school lesson for Rachel (she's apparently incapable of saying no). In the evening I preach, which will be exciting, since I brought three sermons with me to India, and so I am frantically trying to put together number 4 (followed, I suspect, by numbers 5 and 6 on Saturday and Sunday, and possibly more). They clearly are interested in getting their money's worth out of us, and we're happy to help.

Thursday July 21st
A very full day
Today was a great day, we had several amazing adventures.
After a huge breakfast (again with the way too much food) of Dosa made of green lentils and two kinds of chutney, we returned to the congregation where we've been working.
Samuel and Augusteen went off with 10 other pastors on a door to door evangelism trip, while Rachel and Lalitha stayed behind and drank tea. Actually, Rachel also worked on her sermon for the afternoon, talked about gender roles in the United States (Lalitha is a one woman feminist crusade-more on that later), and learned to dance with the young women from the congregation.
Samuel spent some time talking about high caste opposition to evangelism, and the troubles in Hydrabad (there are riots, we hope it doesn't affect our flight), and then set out distributing tracts among the locals. It seemed, in general, to be a chance for lots of people to get their picture taken receiving something from a white dude, and we were invited into every Christian's house for tea or Coke and cookies. The other pastors teased that without me along, no one would have invited them inside. I also got to pray with a lot of people, using the proper blessing on the head technique.
At lunch we had crab and coconut rice. Samuel saw lunch moving around 45 minutes before consumption when the crabs were purchased from a guy riding by the car on a bicycle. That's India-there are people on bicycles with live crabs you can purchase out your car window for 20 cents apiece. It is just a little bit of a cross cultural experience.
In the afternoon, Rachel taught a Sunday school lesson/preached a sermon, including teaching a bunch of Indian youth "Allelu Allelu" and "I've got peace like a river" they were willing participants, and particularly enjoyed the call and response nature of Allelu. Then she spoke on spiritual gifts. Her message was so impressive, that they requested later that she preach at the evening service as well (this time on 45 minutes notice, which was appropriately terrifying, but I'm getting ahead of myself).
After her sharing, which was well received, we went to the beach. Hadessa, a 2nd standard (7 or 8) girl, had a blast, and we all enjoyed getting our feet wet, and the experience of drinking fresh coconut water out of the coconut at the Indian Ocean, which is every bit as amazing as it sounds.
On our way back was when Rachel was asked to preach, and we sprang into action. We used my already prepared theme of all God's children are invited to the table, and Rachel put her own spin on the story of the Wedding banquet and the Samaritan woman at the well. Worship was wonderful, the church was full to overflowing, with people sitting outside listening on loudspeakers to hear the singing and the sermon. Rachel did a great job, its clear she could quickly put Samuel out of a job if she keeps this preaching thing up, SLMF doesn't know what they are missing.
After worship, we had a time for prayers of blessing, and it felt like nearly everyone in the congregation was interested in prayer from Rachel or Samuel or both. Since no one spoke the language anyway, we both found ourselves in a rhythm of 3 or four stock prayers, and rotating between them, but everyone liked it when we used the Telegu name for Jesus, Yesu Christu. We spent about 30 minutes praying without ceasing.
Now, after some laundry, its time for bed. Tomorrow we have a few worship experiences, and are visiting a few churches, and we'll see what else we'll be called to do. We are quite confident, it will be an adventure.

Friday July 22nd
Another exhausting day
Augusteen and Lalitha are hopefully getting their money's worth out of us. Today, Samuel preached four sermons (a new record) and Rachel preached two. Between the both of us, we must have laid hands on 200 people, praying for things as varied as cancer of the blood (bone marrow, I assume, but I don't know), to both of us together praying for a woman to get pregnant. Another new record-we drank 6 coconuts worth of coconut water each. We love the food in India, but we both feel like 1 a day is about right for coconuts.
In the morning we worshiped in a church building under construction, celebrating the construction of God's kingdom.
After a wonderful lunch (beef biryani, and potato and green curry) in the afternoon we went visiting smaller (poorer) churches, where we had shorter worship services, quickly ate what they offered us, and headed to the next place. Samuel preached that everyone is equal before Christ, and Lalitha was delighted when he mentioned that Christian men should be good to their wives, treating them with respect and love.
In the evening, we had the big final prayer meeting (we move on to another area, 2 hours north tomorrow morning), where we both preached. There were non-believers there (Augusteen's language) so we did our best to tell the story of Jesus, and Rachel's message was quite impressive-come become a follower of God, Jesus loves a good party, and Christianity is a celebration!
Afterwards, we had our pictures taken with everyone, and ate at the home of one of the local pastors who lives in a common compound with his extended family, including 6 aunts and uncles and most of the associated cousins. Its an impressive place, and makes up a good bit of the local congregation.
Its amazing to think we had a moment to get in a good hour long nap after lunch. Now, to bed, we'll see what tomorrow will bring.

Saturday, July 23rd
A time to relax
After three days of intensive ministry, we got a mostly restful day today, which is a good thing, because we woke up a bit over tierd and in need of a restful day.
After breakfast in the morning we returned to Augusteen and Lalitha's home in Pithapuram, about a two hours car ride, stopping at a giant statue of Jesus next to a huge river on the way.
Before reaching Augusteen and Lalitha's house, we stopped at the home of a family who works with Grace Gospel Ministires in the city of Kakonada, the nearest big city of their home. There we met the mother and father of the family, as well as the older daughter, a 16 year old who was on school holiday. She spoke English very well, and we had a nice conversation with her about school and her plans to become a doctor. I (Rachel) was struck that one of the first questions the mother of the family asked via Lalitha, who was translating, was weather Samuel and I had an arranged mairrage, or if we were a 'love match.' This led into a conversation about the custom of parents selecting partners for their children, which is still practiced strongly in this area of India. Lalitha told us that 'love matches' were very rare, and that most young women were considered 'mairagable age' around 16, the age of both the young woman we were talking to and Lalitha's oldest daughter. The reality of the lives of women (old and young) in India has struck me during this trip. I'll probably write more on that later, but sufice it to say, I'm thinking about it.
In the afternoon, we spent time getting to know their girls, Priscilla, Shantasa Ruth, and Susan, by playing pick-up sticks and chess, which was a wonderful time, and Rachel quickly became 'auntie'.
Later we drove to the nearby beach, which had been devestated by the Tsumani in 2004. There are still boat pieces laying around far inland, and the road is still washed away in some places. We talked about the devestation there, and how it still shapes the community.
Then, after a brief prayer meeting with the local church, we returned for supper, and we each got Henna decorations on our hands, and Rachel on her feet, thanks to Priscilla, the oldest. She did an amazing job.
We enjoyed just being with our friends, taking time to get to know their children, and we look forward to a day of worship and celebration tomorrow, before our independent adventure begins on Monday.

Monday, July 18, 2011

Settling in before moving on

Monday, July 18th, 2011

We had a quiet day today, resting late into the morning after our weekend adventures. Michael and the two of us adventured on our own for the first time without a more experienced guide, which was a satisfying experience-we are beginning to settle in to the different space.
In particular, we survived buying tickets for later in our trip, to both Hardwar in the mountains and from Agra (where the Taj Mahal is) to Delhi for our flight home. We'd waited, because we'd been told that those were easier to buy in person, and it was a fascinating experience, waiting with about a hundred other people looking to also travel from point A to point B in a little basically unmarked upstairs room. We ended up having to skip the train we would have preferred-an overnight train-for one leaving at 5:30 in the morning, because it was already booked, but all in all, an interesting experience with Indian bureaucracy.
Then we went to a tailors where we got some gifts for our friend Agasteen who we visit tomorrow, and a sharp new Indian shirt for me. On the way home, we stopped at a roadside stand, where I purchased my first roadside food, a delicious mango. I felt very triumphant, even if I got the westerner's price.
In the evening, we had a very different kind of adventure-we went to Harry Potter and the Deathly Hollows Part 2. It was a fascinating mix of a taste of home and a cross cultural adventure. The movie theater had both Popcorn and Paneer, that familiar language of entertainment palace with a unique Indian twist. The movie was fun, and it played more like a melodrama-oohing and awing and clapping at appropriate points, (and one unexpected cheer when Voldermort appeared, ready to attack Hogwarts), with all the emotions that I'm used to expressing quietly shared with the collective room around us.
Tomorrow we journey on from Chennai to Rajamundry, and begin our time with Agastine and Lalitha. It should be an interesting journey, we're looking forward to the experience, and learning about a different part of India, and experiencing the Christian community we'll find.
I'm not sure if there will be internet access, if not, we'll check back in on the 26th or so while we're in Delhi with a massive blog post that only our parents will read.
Now, its time for bed, tomorrow will be a busy day.
Samuel and Rachel

Sunday, July 17, 2011

July 17-Samuel and Rachel's foodie adventure

Hello friends,
particularly those who are just getting out of worship as I write this. I'm thinking of SLMF this Sunday.

Rachel and I just got back from Mamallapurim, a small town about 1.5 hours south of Chennai on the Indian Ocean (or Bay of Bengal, to be perfectly accurate). It was a lovely adventure. The best part of Mamallipurim is you can walk everywhere-the town is about 2 miles by 1 mile, with the core covering just a few city blocks. It takes all of the noise and traffic and trash and chaos of India, and consolidates it into one neat manageable package, and adds a beach and several ancient temples.
We arrived yesterday morning, after a taxi ride with Michael and Aimee, Caroline, Whitney, and Roseline, a Malaysian woman studying in Australia, who is in India for study abroad like the other three. We grabbed lunch at a place that had omelets and crepes (those who have been here a month were craving western breakfast) and headed out to the temples. The Shore Temple is from the 7th century, and is known for a large sculpture of 'reclining Shiva' resting on the waves.
  We went wading on the way to the temple, at Mamallapurim's sandy beach, complete with surfers. After hiking through some hills with other ancient carvings, we went to The Five Rathas, which are chariot shaped temples from a few centuries earlier, plus a carved Elephant.
(can you see the Elephant?)
It is fascinating to see carvings from so many centuries ago, that remain vibrant and sturdy and communicate emotion and passion. These are all UNESCO world heritage sites, and its good that people are paying attention to this kind of history.

After a long hot day of exploring, we returned for naps and the first of several food adventures-a home cooked meal of prawns and small crabs in an amazing curry sauce. Our taste buds are slowly adapting to incredibly spicy food, and we retired completely satisfied.
Today, after shopping for more clothes for Rachel, (one of her previous tops ended up being too tight) we had a seafood lunch (also amazing) and wandered the streets of Mamallapurim seeing the sights and watching our friends barter for gifts. Our favorite bartering story involves a desperate stone carver, who negotiated in the shop for 15 minutes, then when we walked away first chased us down on his motorcycle to drop the price another 2 dollars, and hours later accosted us again in a completely different part of town on our way back to our hotel.
The afternoon was spent eating prawns on the third floor of a beach restaurant overlooking the ocean, watching the silly western tourists (like us) dance in the waves in very inappropriate swim suits (India has strong cultural norms against female nudity, which speaks to some complicated gender issues, but which the women try to follow as representatives of Western culture).
Finally, after supper we headed back to Chennai, braving nighttime driving past a huge political rally and other chaos before doing our first major laundry work and getting ready for bed. Tomorrow is our last day in Chennai, which seems crazy, since we just got here. Hopefully Rajmundry will be as wonderful as our time so far, though internet is likely to be less available.

Oh, and I forgot, but on Friday, Michael did this:
we're glad nothing went wrong.
We're thinking of everyone at home, and send our love and greetings.
Samuel and Rachel

Friday, July 15, 2011

Hot and tired.

Friday July 15th
Hello friends,
we've had our first India adventure, and lived to tell about it.
Yesterday we got to visit the Social Work department at Madras Christian College, where Aimee is working and living. She has a cute little apartment she shares with Caroline, another woman from Denver. It is a bit of a walk from our Guest House, the campus here is just enormous. We had a bit of lunch in the student center, and then Aimee took all of us out on the town to explore the city of Chennai a little bit.
We took the train in 12 stops to Najapurum (or something like that). The train was full, but not packed, so we got to sit down. Most striking to me on my first Indian train ride were the beggars coming through the cars, singing a mournful tune as they went. (though the complete lack of doors was also notable). When we arrived, we got off in the midst of heavy city traffic, and waited by the side of the road for a 'share car' a small minivan which holds about 7 people that goes in a regular loop and picks people up from the side of the road along the way. Its like a little minibus, which is rather neat. We got very cozy as we headed off into the city to the Spencer Plaza mall (yes, an Indian mall. It was very interesting-some similarities to ours, but also a lot more crowded.) Rachel found two beautiful Salwar Kami's at a little shop where Aimee had been before, she is going to feel much more comfortable settling in as a pastor's wife next week I think.
After a snack of ice cream, (fig and honey as well as black currant-yum!) we headed back into the chaos, attempting to find St. Thomas Mount, where Doubting Thomas was martyred in the 1st century (according to tradition). However, the sun was fading fast, and our guidebooks said 'its near the train station' which is not very useful for directions, when 'near' is defined as within a mile or so, there are no signs, and no one speaks English. Stymied, we retreated to a lovely Indian restaurant restaurant for supper (so spicy, but not inedible), after which we returned home, to cards, and a good night's sleep, since we were completely beat.
Today, we went back out into the world. In the morning, I successfully traversed my first solo cross cultural experience. I was sent out to collect breakfast for Rachel, Michael and me. I went to the student canteen, and learned how to order, how to pay, how to ask for things to go, and what an Indian doughnut looks and tastes like (not sweet, and covered in slightly less spicy than usual sauce, but delicious!). A small triumph, obviously, but I try to be pleased with small triumphs.
The bigger adventures of the day were two. First, we all went to Aimee's placement for the summer, an Indian agency working on reducing AIDS among transgendered, homosexual, and sex worker populations. There we got to see their headquarters, hear that Hillary Clinton will be visiting them next week, drink tea (apparently part of most morning rituals) and visit the hospital where they treat AIDS and HIV patients, attempting both to manage the disease, and reduce transmission. They help about 100 people a month at the hospital, with 3 people on staff. It was very interesting to hear some stories, and the social workers had lots of good questions.
In the afternoon, we gave St. Thomas Mount another try. It proved to be more like 2 miles than 1 away, which is a bit much in the 95 degree heat, but we found it eventually, and after a 200 ft. climb, the mountain gave us a tremendous view of the city, with people sprawling out as far as the eye can see in every direction (Chennai is the 4th largest city in India). On top is a very Indian monument to St. Thomas, with bright colors, a gilded crucifix, statues to John Paul the 2nd and Mother Teresa, as well as a Portuguese cathedral. It felt like the end of a good quest, or a pilgrimage, after the long walk and getting lost a couple of times.
After a rest break in the late afternoon, as went over to the Center for International Social Work at Madras Christian College, Aimee and Caroline's official residence, for dinner of various Indian Cuisines made by Caroline. We also met Aimee and Caroline's friend Whitney, a social work student from Canada, and had a lovely evening of chatting and eating good food with wonderful people.
It has been a good day, we're ready to rest, and for tomorrows trip to the beach at Mamalapuram (I'll try to check back in on Sunday evening).

a few pictures

stories to follow.
Our plane in Chicago, getting ready to take off. 9 across is too big!
 Rachel, plus the view from our balcony.
this is where we're staying. Its a comfortable spot, and we're glad Aimee set us up here.

Thursday, July 14, 2011

29 hours later, or are we there yet

Thursday, July 14th, 2011
Hello friends,
we have arrived safely in India, and I am ensconced on the porch of the International Guest House at Madras Christian College, our place of residence while we are here in Chennai.
Its about noon, we're waiting for Aimee, Rachel's sister in law to return from her placement before getting lunch and heading into the city proper for an afternoon of sights and shopping (Rachel is ready to dress more like a local).
Before my reflections on travel, a note. This is going to serve as an all-purpose diary for us-a combination of Voth family trip journal, a chance to update friends and family, an a place to reflect on any of the various cultural experiences we have, and anything else we want to throw in. Thus, fair warning, I feel no obligation towards subject verb agreement, or traditional concepts of narrative flow. This will be primarily for us, and our own enjoyment.
Anyway, first thoughts.
India is a long way away. It took us about 29 hrs. door to door to arrive at our current location, 15 hours of which were on the plane from Chicago to Delhi, squashed in the middle of the 5 across middle row, fighting for armrest space with strangers. It is not a good recipe to arrive rested and rejuvenated, though the novelty of playing tetris on a 777 did distract me for quite some time, and Indian food on an airline is a delightful treat.
Customs in Delhi were surprisingly non-anxious, they needed our word that we weren't smuggling anything illicit or dangerous, but there was no search. I presume they were content that anything Americans let on their planes is OK to allow in India. The men with big guns generally smiled and were helpful. At customs, they did need an address for our location in India, but "International Guest House, Madras Christian College, Chennai" was sufficient, so it seemed largely a formality.
The Delhi airport is nice (apparently, #4 in the world, according to someone), huge, and pretty quiet at 6:30 at night-the chaos of India had to wait until we arrived in Chennai, where there was ample chaos for everyone, from the busy baggage claim, the hundreds of people waiting to pick up travelers at the airport, and of course, the process of getting out of the parking lot.
It is of course cliche, but the experience of watching traffic flow completely naturally, with no concern for street signs, lane markers, pedestrians, or right of way takes some getting used to. As far as I can tell the only rules are stick to your side of the street (left) and don't hit anyone. It, I think, will continually flabbergast me that more cars aren't scraped and dinged up from their time on the busy streets. Even more fun, the Chennai suburban police randomly block off 1 of the 2.5 lanes of traffic on a regular basis with specially made barricades on main roads. They do this, I presume, to disrupt the flow of traffic and bring speeds down (or possibly they just like causing extra chaos). However, Sammy, our driver handled the chaos well, and we arrived in short order at our destination.
Sleep was a little tricky, since we got in at midnight local time, otherwise known as 1:30 in the afternoon, St. Louis, so we all got up early to walk around the quiet campus of Madras Christian College and walk with Aimee to get breakfast-fresh Mangos! The college is clearly an ex-British place, the amount of empty space and greenery seems to be quite unusual, and the shade of the banyan trees is very welcome.
The afternoon promises to be a hot and sticky adventure, but I think after our naps this morning, we will be ready to experience the adventure that is India.
There will be pictures later, I promise.
Samuel Voth Schrag
Thursday, July 14th (I'm going to try and keep track of days, it should be an adventure).